We did one other big hike while we were in Cinque Terre, the high secondary road between Corniglia and Vernazza, both ways. We hiked from Corniglia to Vernazza and took the train back to Manarola, then two days later, took the train to Vernazza, hiked to Corniglia and then took the train back to Manarola. This was a beautiful hike. The distance on the coastal pathway between the two towns is 4km, and this hike is 8km...4 up and 4 down. But it is a very quiet road and we saw less than 2 dozen cars between the 2 days. The views are spectacular and, although it is a road, we were constantly descending through vineyards. This was the best hike and one that we would not have found if the coastal pathway was open.
The place that we stayed in Manarola was very nice. It was a bedroom and bathroom on one level, separated by two terraces from a kitchen. We cooked our own meals on two nights, and did laundry. It is amazing what becomes a treat on a long vacation.
The Cinque Terre is a beautiful area. It has history that goes back almost 1000 years and the natural landscape can't be beat. The five towns are places where people actually live and carry on with their lives, it is not just a bunch a crappy restaurants and trinket shops. The towns are quiet and they are still trying to function within their lifestyle. Manarola did not even have an internet cafe or public internet access!
This area, however, has become overrun with tourists. The people who are willing to hike up into the hills are still able to take advantage of this area, but the people who get off the Disney Cruise ship or big bus tour are really a burden on the area. We saw so many people who were not capable of walking more than 50m downhill complaining about the steps and pathways, and it really sets a bad tone for the area.
We would 100% recommend to friends that they visit this place, but we would have to encourage everyone to get off the beaten trail. These towns deserve more than a Disney tour!
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